Threepenny Review, 2009, Summer Issue
TABLE TALK
On George Papandreou, the elder
Recently I went to purchase a high-tech computer backpack at the new electronics mega-store called PUBLIC, located, appropriately enough, in the heart of Athens, Constitution Square. At the entrance of the large, refurbished nineteenth-century structure, where people sip coffee at a bar perched strategically in front of the store, stands a big bronze plaque:
From this building, on October 18, 1944, George Papandreou, Prime Minister of Greece, gave the Speech of Liberation that marked the end of the German occupation.
At the time he gave that speech—and in fact up until the end of his life—my grandfather lived in a house located in the area of Kastri, a suburb north of Athens. Not being a rich man (for he had been born into poverty), he built his home far from Athens, where in the 1930s real estate was dirt cheap. Back then, there were practically no other homes around. Today it is my sister’s home: my grandfather left it to her, his only granddaughter, as a dowry in his will. The neighborhood is now considered extremely upscale, and builders covet the only remaining pre-war home, with its two acres of untouched pine forest.
Each Saturday of my childhood—once we had returned to Greece from Berkeley, where I was born—our family would have lunch at the house in Kastri. The family seemed fully united, and this particular constellation, consisting of father married to mother, grandfather divorced from grandmother, and us four kids, felt engraved in granite. We were usually served chicken with rice and a bechamel sauce, while my grandfather and my father, who had decided to enter Greek politics and abandon his academic career in Berkeley, discussed the issues of the day. Some time was allotted to us kids, but the high point for me was when lunch was over. That’s when the old man would give us an allowance of a hundred drachmas, worth three dollars and thirty three cents. With this injection, on the return trip I would stop in Kifissia, at a kiosk that still exists forty years later, to buy American comic books. They went for a dollar each, which meant I could and did buy three each Saturday, saving the change for three weeks to buy yet a fourth. I amassed quite a collection in those years, but was not able to bring it with me the night we fled the country in 1968, with my father’s life in danger from the military dictatorship that had just released him from jail. We left with only a small suitcase each: comic book collections were deemed inessential, and on the scale of things, they certainly were.
At those lunches, my grandfather never failed to act the perfect gentleman, and would always offer my mother and sister a rose. He would say with some pride that he himself had planted the rosebush when he first moved in. Some days, he would walk us into the garden so that he could show us the most recent bloom; he’d bend and say, “Smell. This is life.” Here was a man, I later realized, who was in touch with his senses, was always well dressed, always aware of his image, always polishing his voice and his rhetoric, a man who even in exile found ways of loving the places where he found himself.
On the night of the 1967 coup, when most of the politicians were dragged to prison in their underwear, my father included, my grandfather asked the soldiers to do him a favor and give him a moment. If he was going to be arrested, it was going to be in style. As reported to us much later by my father, the old man arrived at the political holding ground (a way-station for the prisons) fully shaved and nicely cologned, and wearing his three-piece suit to boot. Not only that. In full display was the piece de resistance: a rose from his very own rosebush pinned to his lapel.
When he was finally released from prison, my grandfather spent his final days in that Kastri home, under house arrest, before his demise at the age of eighty. Each day, he wore his suit and tie, without fail. He could barely bend down to shine his shoes, but he wanted to look completely unruffled each morning, as if being under house arrest was a temporary condition.
In the spring of 1968, the last spring he would ever enjoy, Kastri dripped with life: the rosebush, the pine trees, the small olive grove. My grandfather wanted to smuggle out a speech to the BBC, which was broadcasting into the country, but he was being watched. He had a recording machine, which the guards had failed to notice, but how was he to use it without being discovered? He decided to play the palaverous cranky old man recalling his past. In front of the soldiers, out in the garden, he would take his walk but now he would talk to himself, sometimes quoting himself from his old speeches, other times coming up with completely new ones. At first they listened in: after all, he was considered a danger. To impress upon them his imbalance, he purposely exaggerated the old flourishes, the intonations, the pauses. Here, in the garden, surrounded by scurrilous but also some respectful soldiers and sergeants who sat beneath the tall pine trees, it didn’t take much to act as if senility had finally come to collect one more soul.
He read the actual speech into a carefully placed microphone in his office. (By then, the soldiers had given up listening in.) As the son of a village priest, he often injected religious anniversaries with political purpose and the Easter of 1968 coincided conveniently with the first anniversary of the coup. His speeches always had a certain biblical style to them, a pithiness and a tendency to aphorism, and it was with these linguistic weapons that he had forged his own unique voice. Greece of Christian Greeks, this speech began, mocking the dictator’s penchant for beginning his own speeches with those very same words. Today, the Greece of Christian Greeks is catholically protestant. Today, though we celebrate the resurrection of Christ, we mourn for the crucifixion of the Greek people.
I recently had occasion to listen to the unedited recording—apparently the BBC filtered out the extraneous sounds when it finally aired the speech. I swear I can hear bits of my own childhood in the background: the sounds of the street, a car in the distance, a lone motorcycle racing up the hills of Kastri, its single lung sputtering with intent. Perhaps it’s only my imagination, but I think I can also distinguish the hoarse cry of the paliatzis, a man who would drive through the neighborhoods on a horse-drawn cart, selling old items collected from abandoned homes.
—Nick Papandreou